Computer Hope
Hardware => Hardware => Topic started by: JoseManuel69 on November 05, 2013, 01:18:27 PM
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My computer screen freezes randomly meaning that it doesn't happen all the time. When it happens everything in my screen just stops for a 1 second and then it keeps going, this will happen about for 10 or 20 consecutive minutes before it stops. This happens randomly, it doesn't matter if I am playing games or using the browser because it even happens when the computer has no applications running, just scrolling the mouse around desktop it will freeze with no applications open which is weird. When I watch videos a weird robot/lagging noise starts when the computer freezes. I know I have no viruses because I scanned my computer many times and also I did the memtest to see if it was the ram but everything appeared to be okay. PLEASE HELP
Specs:
GTX 760 2GB
Cooler Master 750 W Bronze
H87-D3H Gigabyte Motherboard
i5 4670
8GB Kingston Hyper X ram
Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit
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Are you overclocking any of this? I had a similar issue occuring with a gaming rig when it was overclocked. I brought my clock back to native clock of 2600Mhz and the problem went away.
My system passed memtest86, was running within proper operating temps and was having same issues with a 195mhz overclock bringing the FSB to 215Mhz for DDR2 800Mhz RAM, because multiplier was locked at x13 on this CPU. The small gain at 2795Mhz from 2600Mhz wasnt worth the system acting up randomly like this so I went back to 200Mhz FSM memory setting bringing system back to 2600Mhz for the Athlon Quadcore.
The video and audio lag sounded like Max Headroom, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Headroom_(character) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Headroom_(character)) or a sound from the Matrix movie with a strange tone for like 1 second.
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I don't do CPU nor GPU overclocking.
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Probably not driver related, but do you have latest hardware drivers installed?
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Yes, I check for updates every week to be sure that all my programs run as reliable as possible.
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I'd return the vid card for a replacement...
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Before doing that. I forgot to say that every time my computer starts lagging when I open task manager to check the CPU performance the percentage jump up and down really fast. When it starts lagging this is what I see in task manager 4 to 17 percent then it goes down to 2 and then jumps to 14 percent. The CPU perfomance just seems that its going crazy. I am kind of confused what to do now :-\
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Did you establish that it does this is safe mode?
What if you reduce the screen resolution?
Are you running more than one anti-virus?
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I am Running Malwarebytes and Windows Security Essentials. Should I eliminate one?
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No...they are fine together...just don't run more than 1 scan of any protection app at a time.
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I really don't know what to do. Should I configure something or change any parts??
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Is this a home-built computer?
Yes? How long ago., Did it always do this?Did you try fail-safe BIOS settings?
Do you have any parts from other PCs you own? Have you tried to contact the board maker to see if your serial # is among a set of known defects?
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I build this rig. Its all brand new and its about 2 months old. It never did this, this lag/freezing problem started about 1 or 2 weeks ago. I never tried fail-safe BIOS settings how do you do that and what does it do?
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Before doing that. I forgot to say that every time my computer starts lagging when I open task manager to check the CPU performance the percentage jump up and down really fast. When it starts lagging this is what I see in task manager 4 to 17 percent then it goes down to 2 and then jumps to 14 percent. The CPU perfomance just seems that its going crazy. I am kind of confused what to do now
Last time I saw a CPU acting like this and there were no malware, it was because the CPU was roasting hot and it was thermal throttling itself to try to stay cool. The computer was a core 2 quad and the thermal paste was dried up between the heatsink and the CPU surface.
What is the CPU temp at when running a utility such as speedfan? Speedfan can also display other temps as well such as GPU and HDD etc.
If your running too hot then its thermal throttling and causing the system to slow to cool itself, and this will cause CPU to look like a heartbeat of spikes as its processing and then holding itself back over and over again to avoid melt down. Your CPU frequency of operation may also be jumpy as it tries to slow the cores to cool them and reduce creation of heat.
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My computer seems to me that it's stable in temperature. Here is a picture of SpeedFan temps of my computer.
[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]
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My computer seems to me that it's stable in temperature. Here is a picture of SpeedFan temps of my computer. BTW its no my graphics card because I took it out and used the onboard video and the problem still was there, it still lagged.
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One of the risks of doing a Home-Built is the lack of QC.
Understand, I am not trying to give you Home-Guilt for your Home-Built. Rater, when some makers sell motherboards they do little QC testing on the product. A big OEM company will catch this and put some economic pressure on the maker or Vernor of the motherboard. Thee is a trend among some people in the industry to make it hard on Home-Built users.
Your best recourse is to complain to the vendor about his problem.
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I just re-installed windows 7 professional and the lagging/freezing still happens. Do I just change my ram out?? I mean even though memtest showed that my ram is ok, maybe its failing when the usage percentage goes up. I don't know. I think I will just buy 2 different ram modules.
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When memory fails it are will generate some kind of error message. Have you looked in the event log? Have you tried stopping lessor processes to see it that matters?
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I just re-installed windows 7 professional and the lagging/freezing still happens. Do I just change my ram out?? I mean even though memtest showed that my ram is ok, maybe its failing when the usage percentage goes up. I don't know. I think I will just buy 2 different ram modules.
Problems like this can be a money pit to solve. If you don't have a spare computer to mix and test similar spec parts with or a friend willing to help by lending their good RAM etc it can be expensive to diagnose. Do you have any good and affordable computer shops in your area to run it through a hardware diagnostic?
*It would be one thing if you can buy parts and try them until you find the cause of your problem, and then in the end are able to return the parts that are not needed for full refund without a hassle, but I have yet to find a parts provider that allows for return of computer components that have been opened and installed for full refund. The closest I have found is a local computer shop who charges a 25% restocking fee for opened electronics that are not defective, so basically it means that your only getting 75% back and they are going to put it on the shelf as open box for 25% off to the next customer who buys it so they still get there 100%.
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The problem is that this was the first computer I have ever built so I really don't know much about computers diagnosing and I don't have any kinds of spare parts so my last resort will be to just try and buy new ram. I will update if it helped in anyway.
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i guess it was hardisk issue
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i guess it was hardisk issue
HuH ? ?
How did you come to that conclusion ? ?
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The only thing I know is that its not my video card. So If any of you guys can help me fix this before I buy my ram I will greatly appreciate it!
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just try some known good hardisk and you will see that im correct .
to patio i know this because im a genius, heheh just kidding
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My hardisk is a Seagate Barracuda 1T and I have a SSD from San disk that has 120G.
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I also wanted to ask if by any chance it can be the motherboard failing or something?
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just try some known good hardisk and you will see that im correct .
to patio i know this because im a genius, heheh just kidding
It's safe to ignore this guy...
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I just need help! I will ignore him, but I really need help before buying parts that maybe just end up being a waste of money.
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I just need help! I will ignore him, but I really need help before buying parts that maybe just end up being a waste of money.
Do you have any family or friends with computers that use same RAM type and are willing to allow you to borrow a stick of RAM to diagnose your system with?
If so, remove your RAM sticks and install one of theirs and see how your system behaves. I would suggest a minimum of 2GB for Win 7 Pro, or 3 or 4GB if you can borrow 2 sticks of theirs etc. Be sure to have an ESD Bag Handy or a RAM stick clam shell to place the sticks into ( original RAM stick packaging that will not create static and damage the devices, or a silver colored bag that is known as an ESD Bag to protect the memory.) Also either use a ESD wristband with a clip to chasis ground or keep one hand in contact with the chasis metal while reaching in to remove the RAM and install the RAM with the power cord unplugged from wall so that the motherboard has no power to the circuit that waits for soft power button to boot etc. ( There are some who say keep the system plugged in, but off when removing RAM, but I had a client come to me with a blown motherboard when he decided to unplug the RAM from the board with it plugged in and shut off and he decided to use a small flat headed screw driver to eject the RAM stick locking wings and accidentally dropped the screwdriver onto the motherboard and POP, he blew a hairline trace in the motherboard and that was the end of that motherboard. Had there been no power potential present even at low voltage as it was, he would have been able to fish out his screw driver and been fine )
**** If you do not feel confident in taking the risk of messing up a friend or family members computer through this process if you damage the RAM slot, somehow have a static discharge that damages their system etc, then I would suggest bringing your computer to a computer repair shop or a friend who knows how to fix computers and have them diagnose it further.
However there is one last process you can try by taking advantage of a warranty claim process to shotgun the issue in an attempt to fix it. This would be basically if you feel its a motherboard issue, and the warranty is still good for the board. Contact the board manufacturer and claim that the board is defective. Tell them that you know its the motherboard because you swapped out all parts and it points to the motherboard even if you havent because you dont have extra parts to do so. They give you an RMA# and information on how to ship it back for warranty replacement. You remove your RAM, CPU, and cards from the motherboard and ship it back and in say a week or two you see a replacement motherboard show up. You then install all the parts back into the motherboard carefully and see if its fixed or still a problem.
If fixed then your all set and it only cost you the cost of shipping the board back, usually less than $20 USD. If the problem remains, then contact the memory mfr and claim that its failing memtest86 and you know its bad RAM even though the RAM tested good with memtest86. Get RMA# and follow same process. You then are shipped back replacement sticks and then carefully install and see if the problem is gone or not.
Problem gone, your all set. Problem remains then target another part such as CPU or PSU or Video Card etc. Going thru this process you can swap out all parts inexpensively with replacements without buying all new parts to try to diagnose.
I have never had to do this, but when I worked as an Electronics Tech for Motion Control Systems, PLC's etc with Rockwell Automation / Allen Bradley we had some customers who were sneaky and I learned their troubleshooting tricks that they used to avoid costly repairs or replacements. One such customer took advantage of exploiting a warranty term to where if the product was going to expire from the warranty, they would ship it back claiming that it had a problem, and the replacement was issued a warranty term that exceeded that original term, so they were able to have their controllers covered by longer warranty terms and then when they failed no longer an expense to the customer and our company had to eat the cost etc.
Anyone going through this warranty parts swap option wil likely not see a problem with it unless they are repeatedly doing this to raise an eyebrow as to the pattern etc. And by you going through this process, its not really dishonest because you truely have a problem, and the companies make tons of money, so you sending back a part that may be good , claimed as bad is not going to hurt them and its an affordable process to follow and hopefully come to conclusion of what part was the problem and have a healthy system to work with!
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Windows 7 will run on 1 GB of RAM.
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Thanks DaveLembke for all the advice.
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No Problem and Geek is correct about Windows 7 able to run on 1GB RAM, however most games wont run well or at all on just 1GB of RAM shared among OS and Game, so the 2GB minimum was a suggestion vs bare minimum value if borrowing some memory to try the system out on. Windows 7 will run on 1GB RAM, but not as well as it would on 2GB.
I would suggest a minimum of 2GB for Win 7 Pro
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Windows 7 will run on 1 GB of RAM.
Depends on what the User wants it to do...obviously Office and calculator will be fine...
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do you remember what last software you install before this lagg ?? it can be from that software. :)
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I really don't know. I thought it was Microsoft Security essentials at first but that seemed it wasn't the problem. I will try and see if it can be any program but the weird thing is that I had this computer work perfectly for almost 2 full months without any problems and it suddenly had this problem. I already have had this problem for 1 month or so now. I will keep you updated on my problems and the things I have tried.
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Ok guys I think I have finally fixed my computer. I don't know what was it but everything I did was to disable my wi-fi card so now I use direct internet with cable and I re installed the same ram to see if that would make a difference and I think it did. I just want to thank you all for helping me I really appreciate it. THANKS!
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Good to hear that the ongoing issue has been resolved. Thanks for posting the update of what appears to be a solution and suspected cause of wifi adapter. Btw... which wireless adapter is this? This may help someone on a google search someday in relation to a similar issue knowing exact card, since if they have same issues with same card, they can try to disable it and see if that fixes their system as well.
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Well the Wi-fi card I used to use is a Nexxt Solution: Ion 300.
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Is that it?
So, all this time it was a bad wireless adapter. Really?
Well, if it now works, that is good. No point in doing any more research into the issue. Wireless adapters now are very low cost. Amazon and others list some under $10.