Cleaning CPU/Heatsink

[chade]

If you want to see step by step instructions with pictures, visit http://www.arcticsilver.com/instructions.htm for a good guide to how to clean up a heat sink and reattach it (using wonderful arctic silver products of course!)  Mind you, they make VERY good thermal pastes.

[Raptor]

I've got that website bookmarked.

Should I just use plain alcahol? I am not too familiair with cleansing liquids.

[Raptor]

Use high-purity isopropyl alcohol or acetone and a bit of careful rubbing.
Do not use nail polish remover as it contains fragrance oils and other contaminants.
(If you use acetone, do a final cleaning with isopropyl alcohol.)

What kind of alcahol is High-purity Isopropyl Alcahol?

I bought Spiritus Ketonatus Fortior, it's 96%, I'd say that's pretty high-purity.

[chade]

You'll be fine with that.  I had a lot of trouble getting hold of pure isopropyl alcohol (didn't visit any specialty hobby shops, but several computer shops) - one shop told me to just use metho.  

I have been ever since, and I've never had a problem.  Doesn't seem to affect either the heat sink or the chips (I've even cleaned several processors with it - no probs).

Isopropyl alcohol is a type of alcohol (alcohols are a generic type of chemical molecule - there are many different molecules that fall within the category).  There are many synonyms for this particular alcohol molecule, including:
2-hydroxypropane, isopropanol, is2-propanol, iso-propanol, iso-propyl alcohol, IPA, sec-propanol, sec-propyl alcohol, dimethylcarbinol, propan-2-ol, avantin, avantine, combi-schutz, rubbing alcohol, spectrar, sterisol, takineocol, virahol.

I'd say Spiritus Ketonatus Fortior is the brand you bought (?) and yes, 96% is pretty pure for non-critical applications (which this isn't - even if it's important to you).

[Raptor]

Thank you for the info, I will proceed to clean my CPU and Heatsink with the Alcahol currently in my possession.

The only computer shop here advised me to remove any thermal paste remains with the 'head of a screw' ...

He did advise me to be careful. Was he making a joke?

[Joleen]

I'd say it was more of an understatement than a joke.

[chade]

Head of a screw may be going a bit far.  Grab a razor blade, or similar sharpish, flat, thin device, and scrape away all you can.  It takes quite a bit to scratch the metal of a heat sink if you are scraping almost parallel to the surface, so don't be too concerned.  When the excess is wiped away, go for it with the alcohol.  I find that cotton buds (I think Americans call them cotton tips (?) ) are best, as it gives you some rubbing control.  Dip them in the alcohol, and rub away.  Lastly, I finish with a clean, lint free cloth (I cut a small piece of a microfibre no-lint cloth I have) to finish the job.  I do the same to the processor/chip - taking care NOT TO SCRATCH IT and only applying a small amount of alcohol to the cotton bud (I dip it in, then siphon off the excess with some paper towel), and rub the surface gently in circles to remove the paste.  Don't use the razor on the chip - its just not worth it!

[Raptor]

I have re-located my CD-cleaning cloth. It is lint-free. Should I use that instead of 'Cotton buds' (Aren't those the plastic sticks people tend to cleanse their ears with?)

[chade]

Yep.  Ears, and heat sinks

The lint free cloth should be used as the last thing before putting on the paste for re-mounting the heat sink.  It's to remove any final impurities (such as a small piece of cotton from the cotton bud) before you whack on the paste.  The alcohol will remove the old paste, and any oils on the surface of the chip/sink, which should be removed prior to pasting up.  I just personally find i have more control with cotton buds than with a lint free cloth - especially when removing paste from a chip - its easy to apply some pressure and you have control on where you're rubbing, and the plastic of the cotton bud flexes if you're applying too much pressure.  I personally find them to be the perfect tool for the job.

[Raptor]

Correction.

Approximately 5 minutes ago I have discovered that I did NOT buy Arctic Silver. I bought Arctic cooling compound. (It does not even contain silver.) It is SILICONE.

The store salesman (Naturally) supplied me with the wrong product. I dislike salesmen.

http://www.arctic-cooling.com/en/products/thermal_compounds/

[chade]

Sadly, inferior product.  Take it back.  I'm gonna sound like a salesman myself, but in these days of hot hot CPUs there is no substitute for the best - and that in my experience is arctic silver.  I (over)paid $20 for a tube of it recently (Australian Dollars).  It ain't cheap, but it should have been more like $12-15 I reckon.

Silicone is fine for older processors that output less heat, but given your input on the beeping thread I'd say you have had heat problems in the past.  Heat problems = instability.  Don't like it.

P.S.  I hate salesmen too.  That's why I found one shop I like, and go back again and again.  They know me by name, never rip me off and give me decent prices and good advice when I ask it.  Pity they didnt have any spare arctic silver the day I asked for it (so I had to overpay elsewhere).

[Raptor]

The store I bought my Arctic cooling compound at is 150 kilometres away. We moved to a new location and when I was near I decided to buy Arctic silver. I was allready having doubts, but I thought metal-oxide had to be some kind of scientific name for silver.

That must sound stupid, I just assumed it was.

If I were to use this compound together with my CNPS6000-Cu (Zalman Silent cooler) would it be better than the standard thermal paste called 'Zalman Thermal Grease CSL 850' I got with it?

And if I were to use the silicone, would I still have to clean my CPU and heatsink with alcahol for better performance?

[chade]

Silicone is the cheapest cooling paste you can get.  The stuff that came with the Zalman is most likely better - they have a very good name in cooling (in Australia anyway).

Cleaning the surfaces is not coolant-type dependant - its to remove impurities on the surface (old paste is most definitely an impurity, as is any dust, lint, oils etc).  Removing all impurities allows the two surfaces to meet closer, with the gaps filled with new thermal paste.  The paste conducts the heat between the processor and the heat sink with maximum efficiency - better pastes are better conductors of heat.  If there are impurities, it reduces the ability of the paste to conduct heat away from the processor core, leaving the processor hotter and potentially causing instability in the first instance, and meltdown in extreme cases.

[merlin]

if you are not having problems just leave the cpu alone playing about can be costly:)or this >http://il.essortment.com/cleaningcompute_rgml.htm