Computer upgrade problem :<

[Jasy19]

Hi, I am a bit confused with will be best for me to get for my  PC.
I currently have:

Motherboard: Gigabyte M68MT-S2
Processor: AMD Bulldozer FX 8120
8 GB Ram,
1TB sata hard drive
Radeon hd 7770 1gb graphics card
etc...

I desperately need a new case and psu as things are getting too hot, and want to know what good PSU's are there that would be useful for me? I'm looking to overclock eventually and I imagine combined with the case I'm getting, I may need a high wattage one?

case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=11-119-160&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2#scrollFullInfo

Thanks in advance.

[Computer_Commando]

1.  Some details of your current case & psu would be helpful.
2.  Define:  too hot.

The Cooler Master case looks nice (it should for $120 with no psu).

[Jasy19]

1.  Some details of your current case & psu would be helpful.
2.  Define:  too hot.

The Cooler Master case looks nice (it should for $120 with no psu).

I'm not really sure myself to be honest,
this is the exact case: http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/cases/cases/galaxy3.html

For the psu, after taking a look inside the case, I can see, 230 volts.. possibly 750 watts, ATX switching power supply,

I think it is this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CiT-750W-Black-Edition-PC-Computer-Power-Supply-PSU-ATX-750UB-/121135039088

And by too hot, when I play some demanding games with the case closed, the pc will just turn off. I checked my processor and graphics which don't seem to be the problem, and I'm almost positive it is the psu, (as it is pretty hot just touching the top of the case).

I have 2 problems maybe,
1: Is that the PSU is blowing hot air directly onto my processor heat sink, (I want to overclock this in the future), so a bigger case will solve that problem.

2. The PSU must be crappy for heat? Looking to one that'll retain and disperse it's heat nicely, giving me plenty of power to overclock etc.

[Calum]

The PSU doesn't blow into the case, it takes air from inside the case and expels it out of the back.
You shouldn't be looking to overclock with that motherboard, the Bulldozer will destroy it in no time.
The XFX Pro 550W or 650W is a good choice from a price/performance perspective.  A replacement PSU is highly advisable, the CiT is not a good unit.  Even if you don't have that exact unit, it won't be good quality if it came bundled with that case, for that price.

[Jasy19]

The PSU doesn't blow into the case, it takes air from inside the case and expels it out of the back.
You shouldn't be looking to overclock with that motherboard, the Bulldozer will destroy it in no time.
The XFX Pro 550W or 650W is a good choice from a price/performance perspective.  A replacement PSU is highly advisable, the CiT is not a good unit.  Even if you don't have that exact unit, it won't be good quality if it came bundled with that case, for that price.

I thought that, but when I put my hand underneath, I can feel air being pushed into the case, as well as out the back.

Howcome with the motherboard? As I thought it was a fairly decent one;
I've got a Hyper 212+ evo as the cpu cooler which seems to do a good job, around 50-60 degrees hardcore, but I think most of that is the small case/psu issue.

Would there really be much of an issue pushing 3.1 ghz to 4 ghz?

[Calum]

Interesting, it definitely should pull air in at the bottom and push air out of the back.  It's pretty much impossible for it not to, I can't see how a single fan could push air out of both the back and bottom, leaving nowhere for it to take air in.

Have a look here - http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database
It's a list of all, or almost all, AMD motherboards with VRM info.  Your board is only rated to 95W, not entirely sure how they get away with saying Bulldozer is supported on it to be honest.  The link at the start of the thread does a good job of explaining why VRM rating is so important.  I certainly would not want to overclock an already power hungry CPU on that board.

[Jasy19]

Interesting, it definitely should pull air in at the bottom and push air out of the back.  It's pretty much impossible for it not to, I can't see how a single fan could push air out of both the back and bottom, leaving nowhere for it to take air in.

Have a look here - http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database
It's a list of all, or almost all, AMD motherboards with VRM info.  Your board is only rated to 95W, not entirely sure how they get away with saying Bulldozer is supported on it to be honest.  The link at the start of the thread does a good job of explaining why VRM rating is so important.  I certainly would not want to overclock an already power hungry CPU on that board.

I did some googling and yes, I see what you mean. Many people saying they get problems, and from what I can see, it's a pretty cheap board.

I've got a budget of about £260 to upgrade :/
Do you have any suggestions? 3 RAM slots would be desirable (if that ever happens), as on Planetside 2 I seem to hit about 90% of my memory, (2 x 4gb installed).
Obviously have the case, though I'm trying to look around for one maybe cheaper, to save some money for a better mobo perhaps.

Thank you in advance

[Calum]

The Asus M5A97 Evo, or Evo R2, is generally regarded as a good board for AMD overclockers, alternatively consider the M5A99X Pro or Evo, or the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 although I would recommend the Asus boards.

[Jasy19]

The Asus M5A97 Evo, or Evo R2, is generally regarded as a good board for AMD overclockers, alternatively consider the M5A99X Pro or Evo, or the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 although I would recommend the Asus boards.

The M5A97 evo seems decent, and would work for everything as far as I can tell. So that's a £80 mobo, £80 case, now to find an £80 psu   

[Calum]

£80 is plenty for a decent PSU, the XFX units I mentioned above are more than sufficient and are excellent quality and value for money.
I sound like an XFX shill sometimes but in the PSU market, there are only rare occasions an XFX doesn't make sense considering their cost.

[Jasy19]

£80 is plenty for a decent PSU, the XFX units I mentioned above are more than sufficient and are excellent quality and value for money.
I sound like an XFX shill sometimes but in the PSU market, there are only rare occasions an XFX doesn't make sense considering their cost.

Would the 650w be plenty for my power hungry cpu overclocked? 

[Calum]

Yes.

[Jasy19]

Thank you very much It's not often you get some good help

[Calum]

No problem at all, glad to have helped

[Jasy19]

Raaahhh, seems like I'm not going to have enough money in my budget as I thought, does anyone know of any similar but cheaper cases as posted above? Just looking for a full-size well vented case, I don't care much about looks.

Thanks

[IronRook]

How about your processor fan ?Is it stock?

Start there with replacing with a nice after market one.

[Jasy19]

How about your processor fan ?Is it stock?

Start there with replacing with a nice after market one.

I have the hyper evo 212, it works well, but it is so large in my mid-sized crappy case, that it sits directly next to the psu fan which seems to blow hot air (as it sucks).

[patio]

Unfortunately your solutions don't reside here...they reside in your budget which we cannot assist with...
Best of Luck.

[Calum]

Check out the HAF 912 which is around £20 cheaper than the 932, but still a good case for air cooling.  Bitfenix Raider is also a similar price
The Antec 300 is a good case for the price, too, if you grab a few fans for the front (or have some lying around).  Otherwise, just swap the rear fan to the front and it's still quite good.  That's around £50.
Any good, or shall I keep going?

[Jasy19]

I might be reviving the thread a little, but it's pay day and I'm purchasing the parts today!
The motherboard and PSU are fine, however I'm hunting around for another case, as the HAF is a mid-sized and I kind of want a full-tower for the little bit of extra space.

I've been looking at this: http://www.cclonline.com/product/78907/GIGA-GZ-G2-PLUS/Cases/Gigabyte-GZ-G2-Plus-PC-Tower-Case/CAS0579/

Not exactly the prettiest, but it has some fans included, large case and a perfect price. Unless there are some reasons anyone can see why I shouldn't?

[Calum]

The Gigabyte case in your link is smaller than the HAF 912.
Gigabyte: 185 x 420 x 445 mm
HAF: 230 x 480 x 496 mm

I've never used the Gigabyte so I can't comment on it from personal usage, but it looks OK for the price I guess.
At worst, you'll lose £5 or so if you don't like it and want to send it back for a refund under DSR, so if you like the look of it then it's worth a shot.

[Jasy19]

Good spot, I just saw someone who said it was a large mid-tower.
I don't really have any expectations for height or length, although now you've said it, I'm not sure my hyper evo 212 would fit. (It barely misses the side panel on my current case).

[Calum]

Evo 212 dimensions: 120 x 80 x 159 mm
It's fairly small as decent air coolers go, but I think the Gigabyte case might be a little tight even if it does fit - 185mm doesn't leave a lot of clearance when you factor in the side panels, motherboard, standoffs, and space behind the other panel.

[Jasy19]

Yes, it's very dodgy! I think I might just have to get it and see though. On the top-side of the cooler, there are four little gold heads, which may be the parts that stick out. I suppose I could always drill a few holes for them to poke through, lol.

[Calum]

You could, but I would really recommend just getting a larger case.  Having the ends of the heatpipes poking out the side panel isn't really ideal.  If you were after a case with more space than the 912, the Gigabyte is not going to meet your expectations.

[Jasy19]

Perhaps I'll just go with the HAF then, it has better dimensions than my current case so it should be absoloutely fine.

[Calum]

The HAF will certainly fit the 212 Evo, I've fitted larger coolers in a 912 before.
If it's not to your taste though, there are plenty of others on the market, we can take another look for one you like better?

[Jasy19]

Yeah I'm looking around still for other choices

[Calum]

I have a huge CM case at home going spare
Off the top of my head, the Corsair 300R might be worth a look.  If I haven't mentioned the Antec 300, I'm mentioning it now - it might be an older case but it has plenty of cooling and expansion options, and it'll take large coolers with ease.

[Jasy19]

The Antec 300 looks pretty good, would you say getting a 120mm fan for the front would be worthwhile? £50 seems pretty reasonable for that case.

[Calum]

I would say so, yes, ideally get a matching fan (Antec Tricool).  With two fans in the front, and the rear and top fans in place, the cooling capability is excellent.  It's cheap because it's made of steel (so nice and sturdy) and doesn't have a nicely painted interior or a side window...that's pretty much all it lacks over a more expensive case, but in return you get a solidly constructed case at a good price, although it was still better valued when it was £35-40 but that was a good while ago now.  I remember when there was a worldwide shortage of Antec 300s which caused much panic, but I'm rambling now

[Jasy19]

Haha, it does seem very good despite the looks.
I found this: http://www.maplin.co.uk/zalman-z11-plus-atx-pc-case-black-686050?c=maplin&utm_source=gcs&utm_medium=gcs_search&utm_campaign=N51NU&utm_content=PC+Cases&_$ja=cgid:7690034683|tsid:49900|cid:119049523|lid:44978789203|nw:{network}|crid:26685291043|rnd:{random}|dvc:{device}|adp:{adposition}&gclid=CKrh8pyDvLoCFceWtAodm1UA0Q


I'm not sure if it actually includes all the fans though... but if it did, I assume that's a pretty good pick?

[Jasy19]

After looking it over, I think it comes with 4-5 fans included!

[Calum]

I've always loved the way the Antec 300 looks, I don't tend to like LED fans and flashy doo-dahs.

As for the Z11 - looks like it comes with 5 fans - 120mm in the top, front and rear, and 2 80mms in the side.  Incidentally, side panel fans are almost always a bad idea, and 80mm fans have no place in modern computers.  I'm not a fan (no pun intended) of most Zalman cases, in fact any semi-modern Zalman case, as the ones I've had the misfortune of building in were awful - very cheaply built.  I haven't tried the Z11-Plus personally, so perhaps it's better, although if it was my build I would pick the Antec every single time.

[Jasy19]

I know exactly what you mean! I don't like it to be too modern, but the Antec looks a little too bland for me (I realise that I'm very picky haha)
The way I am looking at it is price, looks and obviously cooling/fans included.

The antec is pretty much the same price as the Zalman, but with only 2 fans from what I saw. I like the Zalman's looks, seems to offer good cooling, although I can see how two 80mm fans would be pretty ineffective, especially on side panels. I'm starting to lean towards the Zalman nonetheless

[Calum]

I don't care much about looks.

I know exactly what you mean! I don't like it to be too modern, but the Antec looks a little too bland for me (I realise that I'm very picky haha)
The way I am looking at it is price, looks and obviously cooling/fans included.

I see.

Well, at the end of the day it's your decision, I'm just explaining what I would choose if it was my money and why.  If you like the looks of the Zalman and want 5 fans, then buy it.  If I wanted LEDs etc I would probably get some LED fans and put them in the front of the Antec, like in this system (OcUK Titan Xenomorph) as I detest the Zalman case and predict it to probably be a cheaply constructed nightmare to build in like the Z9.  But as I said, it's entirely up to you, it's not my system

[Jasy19]

I don't mean to sound ungrateful or anything! Cosmetics are the least of my worries, but it still matters to some degree haha.
I can see why you'd pick the Antec, that looks pretty sweet.

I think I may give the Zalman a shot for the price, apparently two blue LEDS are supplied too as shown in the pic. Seems to have good spacing and cooling. Now to go check my account and hopefully order all these things!

Another thank from me  

[Calum]

Just to be clear I would never have LEDs in the front like that, I'm just saying it's an option to brighten the case up.
I didn't think you were sounding ungrateful heh, I was just saying it's entirely up to you.
Hopefully you'll be happy with the Zalman, enjoy your build!

[Jasy19]

Case: http://www.maplin.co.uk/zalman-z11-plus-atx-pc-case-black-686050?c=maplin&utm_source=gcs&utm_medium=gcs_search&utm_campaign=N51NU&utm_content=PC+Cases&_$ja=cgid:7690034683|tsid:49900|cid:119049523|lid:44978789203|nw:{network}|crid:26685291043|rnd:{random}|dvc:{device}|adp:{adposition}&gclid=CKrh8pyDvLoCFceWtAodm1UA0Q

Mobo: http://www.amazon.co.uk/M5A97-EVO-R2-0-Motherboard-eS-ATA/dp/B008RPZ5H8

PSU: XFX 650 or 750w?

Which would you recommend? And what would be the differences between the higher wattage?

Should be my last question 

[Calum]

650W is more than enough for your system.  The only difference is that the 750W can supply more power, but 650W is more than enough for the components you have now, or for a much more power hungry system in the future, so it'll last you a long time.

[Jasy19]

Rahhh, now I've found I don't quite have enough to include the XFX psu unit. Looking for something in the region of £50-60.

Any idea what the Cooler Master GX RS650-ACAAD3 is like?:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/650W-Cooler-Master-GX-RS650-ACAAD3-UK-85-Eff-80-PLUS-Bronze-SLi-Xfire-EPS-/130972366900?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

And would it have all the neccessary cables etc? (I'm such a pain in the arse  )

[Calum]

Any idea what the Cooler Master GX RS650-ACAAD3 is like?:

Yes.  Don't buy it.
Antec High Current Gamer 520W should do nicely, it's around £60.  Alternatively, get the XFX Pro 450W which is still adequate for your system for around £40.

[Jasy19]

Yes.  Don't buy it.
Antec High Current Gamer 520W should do nicely, it's around £60.  Alternatively, get the XFX Pro 450W which is still adequate for your system for around £40.

Hahaha! Shows my knowledge of power supplies :p.

Are you sure an XFX pro 450W would be sufficient? given that I'll have the fx-8120 overclocked (hopefully ) my graphics card plus all the fans? I get a bit paranoid about these things including cabling

[Calum]

If you're unsure, get the 520W instead.

Edit: in fact, if you're planning on overclocking, you'll need a pretty hefty PSU as Bulldozer really sucks down the juice once you start clocking it.  Depends how far you want to go, but if you're planning on pushing to say 4.4-4.6, you'll ideally need around a 650W at minimum - compared to stock where your system will draw <350W.

[Jasy19]

Would you not recommend the 520w if I'm am overclocking then? As that is the plan

[Calum]

See my edit.  You'll need a much heftier PSU than I originally recommended if you're overclocking that Bulldozer CPU.

[Jasy19]

So, I definitely need a 650w then! I'm planning on overclocking at least to 4-4.2ghz.

XFX: http://www.dabs.com/products/xfx-650w-80--bronze-certified-single-rail-75R9.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc%20product%20search&utm_content=Q200&utm_campaign=Components%20and%20Storage%20-%20Cases,%20Cooling%20and%20Power%20-%20Power%20Supply%20Units&origin=pla

Antec: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/281185096657?lpid=83&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=83&ff19=0

 

[Calum]

Both good units, the Antec is made by Delta and the XFX by Seasonic who are both top tier.
Take your pick really, although I'm unsure if there would be any warranty with the Antec from Ebay, not sure how their warranty goes, whereas obviously the XFX will have a full warranty as it's new.

[Jasy19]

All parts arrived today and I'm starting to build it!

Another quick question first...!, with the XFX psu unit, do I place the fan-side facing into the case, or down, (which faces some small slits on the bottom of the case). I'm guessing it is the first.

[Calum]

It's pretty much up to you.  I'm not familiar with the Zalman case so I don't know if there's enough clearance underneath to make it worthwhile having the fan facing downwards, but if in doubt have it facing up into the case.  If the system will be kept on carpet or anything else likely to obstruct airflow into the PSU if it faced down, face it up anyway.

[Jasy19]

Ok, all built! Working nicely - though I had to reinstall Windows which I suppose was going to happen anyway. Although something strange happened and I've kept all my old files, which were placed into Windows.old. I'm going through deleting old files, are there are good registry cleaners that are actually safe?

I also had a problem with some of the front-port pin wiring stuff, there were two little 1-pin connectors with HDD Leds written on them, but no port on the mobo to connect them to. I did however receive a strange adapter with the mobo, which has the right ports. Though I have no clue where it'll go. I plugged up the power SW reset SW correctly etc, though I'm not sure if there is a screen on the top of my Zalman Z11 plus case.. It looks strangely like it could be a screen for pc temps etc.

Seems to be going nice and smoothly, do you happen to know a good program for overclocking too? I have AMD Catalyst which has an option, though I know it's a bit of a dodgy area.

[Calum]

Ok, all built! Working nicely - though I had to reinstall Windows which I suppose was going to happen anyway. Although something strange happened and I've kept all my old files, which were placed into Windows.old. I'm going through deleting old files, are there are good registry cleaners that are actually safe?

That's normal if you install to the same partition Windows was already on, rather than wiping it.  There's no need to use a registry cleaner, ever, and all your old files are in Windows.old so deleting that folder will remove the old install for all intents and purposes.

I also had a problem with some of the front-port pin wiring stuff, there were two little 1-pin connectors with HDD Leds written on them, but no port on the mobo to connect them to. I did however receive a strange adapter with the mobo, which has the right ports. Though I have no clue where it'll go.

The HD LED connectors will be in the same place as the power and reset switches, looks like they're all in the bottom right of the board.  The little adapter Asus include is their "Q-Connector" block, which lets you plug all the front panel connectors into it, then plug it into the connectors on the board.  It can save a few seconds if the connectors are awkward to get to, but I never bothered with it myself.

though I'm not sure if there is a screen on the top of my Zalman Z11 plus case.. It looks strangely like it could be a screen for pc temps etc.

Not sure about that as I'm not familiar with the case, I can't see anything like that from a quick Google image search.

Seems to be going nice and smoothly, do you happen to know a good program for overclocking too? I have AMD Catalyst which has an option, though I know it's a bit of a dodgy area.

Overclocking, a dodgy area?  It used to be my job
For the video card, MSI Afterburner or its clones, Sapphire Trixx and EVGA Precision, are all good.  They'll set the card's voltage if it's supported, set the core and memory speeds (and shader speed if it's not locked to the core clock), and control the fan speed, including setting up a custom fan curve, and of course they'll monitor anything the card can report like temperatures, fan speed, memory usage, and so forth.
For the CPU, don't overclock using software, overclock using the options in the BIOS under Ai Tuner.  Don't use auto settings for anything important like voltage, memory timings and ratios.  Prime95 is a good CPU stress test to make sure it's stable, ditto LinX and OCCT.  Core Temp is the best way to monitor your CPU's temperatures, or HardwareMonitor will do that and more.  CPU-Z is great to monitor the clock speeds and the CPU voltage, which is also important.
Here's a pretty good guide to Bulldozer overclocking on an Asus board - clicky.

[Jasy19]

I get the feeling I'm going to be reading that thread for a few nights lol!
I don't understand overclocking very well, just that you have an obvious amount of wattage for the cpu which gets increased, as well as individual clock speed. Reading time >_<

Another thank from me in the meantime! Haha

[Calum]

Heh, it does have a wealth of information.  Thought it would be better to link you to it than to repeat half of it here, as it covers how to increase the speeds, how to test them, and how to increase voltage and change other settings to maintain stability.  Also, helpfully, there's a good explanation of which speeds actually do what, as increasing the CPU clock speed alone isn't always what you want.

[Jasy19]

Okay.... this morning my pc isn't turning on...
I don't see any lights on the motherboard, tried a different power cable. Checked the power switch is still connected to the mobo etc... ummm? 

[Jasy19]

Arggghhhh.....

What the *censored* could cause my PC to not boot up this morning? I restarted a few times last night etc, and it was working perfectly....

So far... I've opened the case up, checked the CPU fan, the big mobo power connector, the two 4-pin ATX connectors, removed my gfx card, removed ram (idk why this would cause the mobo to not display any lights)... Tried different power sockets, two different power cables, reattached front power switch connectors, reconnected the power/reset SW pins on mobo...

I'm getting nothing... :/....

[Jasy19]

After just checking my old psu in the other case by plugging the 24 pin into my mobo, I received the green light.

So... the XFX unit managed to break overnight?

[Jasy19]

Confirmed the XFX unit must be broken. Fitted my old PSU and I'm back up and running again.

Do you have any suggestions for what it could of been? Or maybe I missed something obvious on the unit?

[Computer_Commando]

After just checking my old psu in the other case by plugging the 24 pin into my mobo, I received the green light.

So... the XFX unit managed to break overnight?

You understand it's never really off, unless switched off with the psu switch or power cord removed from the psu?
That's why the green light stays on.
Aren't you glad you got the one with the warranty?
Five Year Warranty
XFX PSUs include a comprehensive 5 Year Warranty backed by a highly rated 5 Star Support Service

[Calum]

Interesting, normally if a PSU is going to die it's either dead out of the box or within a few minutes of powering on, or it tends to last a fairly long time before expiring.
Sorry to hear of your bad luck, but as pointed out at least XFX do have a good warranty service - although your first port of call should be the retailer.  If they're any good, they'll replace the unit the same day they receive it.

[Jasy19]

Yes, I was just trying to get power to the mobo. The green light I know indicates power or something similar, which the XFX just stopped doing. Hence fitting my old PSU
Very glad I got the warranty! lol. Though I'm sure I would of gotten a refund for the other PSU had I of got that, consumer rights and all.

I sent the company an email anyhow and I should get a reply tomorrow as to whether/when they will be sending me a replacement.

And yes, I just figured it was bad luck, the thing worked absolutely fine last night, gave it a quick try-out on Planetside 2, which somehow seemed a lot smoother than previously. Perhaps the motherboard was throttling my CPU?

[Calum]

Very glad I got the warranty! lol. Though I'm sure I would of gotten a refund for the other PSU had I of got that, consumer rights and all.

Of course, the retailer is obliged to supply goods of a merchantable quality, and they must last for a reasonable amount of time, under the SOGA.  The difference is that the other PSU (assuming you mean the CIT unit you're currently using) is not able to supply its rated power, and is not backed by a reputable company.  They also would not compensate you for the damage caused to your components when the voltage it supplied went out of spec when you tried to pull anywhere near its supposed rating, not for the resulting fire if things got that far.  The fact that there are no professional reviews of any CIT units speaks for itself.  The dangers I've mentioned are very real, crappy PSUs are a problem that shouldn't be underestimated.  That said, your PSU seems to have coped fine with your system so far, so no need to have the fire department on standby just yet just be aware that the sticker on the box isn't always the last word in the quality of a power supply.

Edit: it's also very possible your CPU was being throttled back, the VRMs would've been pushed to their limits or beyond under any serious CPU load so they would throttle back to prevent damage or, again, a fire.

[Jasy19]

Of course, the retailer is obliged to supply goods of a merchantable quality, and they must last for a reasonable amount of time, under the SOGA.  The difference is that the other PSU (assuming you mean the CIT unit you're currently using) is not able to supply its rated power, and is not backed by a reputable company.  They also would not compensate you for the damage caused to your components when the voltage it supplied went out of spec when you tried to pull anywhere near its supposed rating, not for the resulting fire if things got that far.  The fact that there are no professional reviews of any CIT units speaks for itself.  The dangers I've mentioned are very real, crappy PSUs are a problem that shouldn't be underestimated.  That said, your PSU seems to have coped fine with your system so far, so no need to have the fire department on standby just yet just be aware that the sticker on the box isn't always the last word in the quality of a power supply.

Edit: it's also very possible your CPU was being throttled back, the VRMs would've been pushed to their limits or beyond under any serious CPU load so they would throttle back to prevent damage or, again, a fire.

It was comparing to the Antec? cooler unit that we looked at on Ebay, which wouldn't have a warranty like the retailer that provided the XFX, but yes I know what you mean.
It's pretty sad having the CiT psu in, though it'll have to do for the time being. I haven't overclocked yet and I'm not sure I even want to put it under a stressful load, so I doubt i'll play any games until i've got a replacement. (The PSU fan is a few inches away from my graphics card, and given how hot it used to get, I'm not sure I'm comfortable with it blowing hot air onto it).

[Calum]

Ahh, understood.  Yeah, in that case the warranty was unclear, Antec may have covered it but I'm not too sure without checking their terms.  Some companies require proof of purchase from an authorised retailer and may require that you're the original purchaser, others just go from the serial number.  Haven't had to RMA anything to Antec myself so I don't know how they work.  I'm sure the seller would've given you a refund, as Ebay is extremely biased towards the buyer, but it's unlikely to be as pain free as RMAing a brand new XFX to a big etailer.
With any luck, they'll deal with it quickly for you.

[Jasy19]

Yeah, hopefully they will reply to my email tomorrow and send a replacement. At least it wasn't my motherboard, because the Hyper evo 212 mount is a pain in the *censored* lol.

[Calum]

Tell me about it!  Coolermaster are the masters of PITA cooler mounting.  I recommended a regular 212 to a friend I worked with as a reasonably priced cooler, he just about killed me the next day after mounting it.

[Jasy19]

Okay!

So I'm finally getting ready to OC!

These are the instructions for what I must do, yes? I'm just trying to double-check everything over, but it seems simple. The first few posts had me confused as I thought they were what I had to do, rather than just explaining what things are. )

"Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz.
M5A97 Users Please see the M5A97 Notes
RECOMMENDED SETTINGS

    Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
    AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
    DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
    CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
    HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
    CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
    CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks)
    CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
    CPU/NB LLC - Auto
    CPU Current Capability - 130%
    CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
    DRAM Current Capability 130%
    Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
    C1E - Disabled
    SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
    Core C6 State - Disabled
    HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind)
    Amp Master Mode - Disabled

    ***The power saving features should be disabled until you find your stable overclock. Then feel free to re-enable them to benefit from power savings

Read all the steps before proceeding

    In the BIOS, set the Recommended Settings. Then Save and Exit.
    Do not adjust the CPU Manual Voltage, or CPU Ratio yet.
    Back in the BIOS, scroll to CPU Manual Voltage and Manually Set it to whatever value it shows for your CPU. They all vary
    You need to find the Max OC you can get at the stock voltage so move to CPU Ratio and adjust it up.

    Most Piledriver CPUs will run an extra 400-500Mhz on Stock Voltages
    Most Bulldozer CPUs will run an extra 700-800Mhz on Stock Voltages

    Exit and Save changes, and boot into your Operating System.
    Load and run Prime95 Small FFT for 10 Minutes.
        If no Cores Fail, then increase another point on the CPU Ratio and run Prime95 again.
        If a Core Fails then increase the CPU Manual Voltage one point and run Prime95 again.
        If your system Freezes or BSOD, then reduce you CPU Ratio by one point and run Prime95 again.
        If your system Freezes or BSOD after increasing the CPU Ratio by one point then increase your CPU Manual Voltage by three points and run Prime95 again.

        (each run of Prime95 for this step will be 10 minutes on Small FFT's)
    When Overclocking, make sure to monitor temperatures. Once you have reached the thermal or voltage limits of your overclock (or just one you are happy with) Then it is time to run a full Prime test.
    Full Prime Test = Custom Setting - using 75% of your ram for a minimum of 6-12 hours
    this is just what I recommend. If you are happy with 2 hours of prime, that's fine
    If your system fails the Prime test, then increase the CPU Manual Voltage by one point and re-test. Or, if it passes, then enjoy your faster running CPU.
"

[Jasy19]

Ok.. So i've started overclocking, and things are laggier than they were?

Also, whenver I try to increase the manual cpu voltage by one increment (so .6v - the minimum first increase), I get a black screen, to which I then have to turn my pc off, back on again, to find a motherboard screen saying the overclock failed, press F1 to reconfigure. Any ideas?

Edit:
I've changed my cpu ratio down, so it has gone from 3.1 to 3.5, things are now running smoothly again on games. I don't really want to increase it any more, as things obviously get too unbearable.