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Author Topic: Build New or Repair Old?  (Read 7504 times)

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DaveLembke



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Re: Build New or Repair Old?
« Reply #15 on: April 19, 2014, 08:02:56 PM »
Since you have PC-2 5300 sticks, I'd stick with the same... however I am curious as to if your RAM is running underclocked.

I'd run CPU-Z on your system and see what speed the RAM is running at... It may be running the sticks at 533Mhz instead of 667Mhz FSB  http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

Crucials are good for running at their native clock or underclocking, however some other sticks dont like to underclock so you will want to confirm the FSB speed before buying memory for it or sticking with Crucial for the other 2GB in the PC-2 5300 speed rating.

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artbuc

    Topic Starter


    Apprentice

    Re: Build New or Repair Old?
    « Reply #16 on: April 20, 2014, 04:17:40 AM »
    Since you have PC-2 5300 sticks, I'd stick with the same... however I am curious as to if your RAM is running underclocked.

    I'd run CPU-Z on your system and see what speed the RAM is running at... It may be running the sticks at 533Mhz instead of 667Mhz FSB  http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

    Crucials are good for running at their native clock or underclocking, however some other sticks dont like to underclock so you will want to confirm the FSB speed before buying memory for it or sticking with Crucial for the other 2GB in the PC-2 5300 speed rating.

    Thanks for the link. 200.4MHz, FSB/DRAM is CPU/5. I used the crucial.com application tool to spec my current sticks. IIRC, they exactly match original install. Given this low RAM speed, what, if anything, should I do to upgrade RAM? IOW, will more RAM help or am I limited by the 200MHz? Should I replace my current sticks with lower speed? Thanks.
    « Last Edit: April 20, 2014, 05:04:49 AM by artbuc »

    artbuc

      Topic Starter


      Apprentice

      Re: Build New or Repair Old?
      « Reply #17 on: April 20, 2014, 07:44:15 AM »
      One more point. On the CPU-Z report under the SPD tab, it shows a Timing Table with 3 columns - JEDEC #1, JEDEC #2 and JEDEC #3, the speeds are 200MHz for #1 and #2 but 333MHz (which matches the PC2-5300 sticks) for #3. The specs for my PC call for PC-2 4200 sticks but Crucial says the 5300 are backward compatible. What is JEDEC #3? It is some sort of effective transfer speed/rate for both sticks? I have a PC-2 5300 512MB stick in slot 1 and slot 2.

      DaveLembke



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      Re: Build New or Repair Old?
      « Reply #18 on: April 26, 2014, 02:31:34 PM »
      Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. It appears that your memory is running slower to accomodate the motherboard limit of PC2-4200 specs. Crucials are good at backwards compatability. To ensure a better match, I'd try to find some other Crucial sticks that are PC2-5300 that are 1GB sticks and install 3GB RAM total ( 2 x 512mb + 2 x 1GB sticks ). From 1GB to 3GB of RAM you should see a noticable difference. On my wifes system she was running on low memory for Windows 7 32-bit and after upgrading her to 3GB I noticed a difference right off. Her hard drive LED activity also slowed ( making for better performance )as for there was less paging/swap file needed to run the processes she was running. So instead of the HDD LED being on constant or flickering frequently after the 3GB of RAM upgrade the HDD activity ended sooner and wasnt as frequent with flicker of activity because the system was able to hand off processes within memory which is the fastest it can process it vs handing off data from memory to hard drive paging file/swap space in which data in and out from a HDD, even a SSD is much slower getting back to the CPU than data direct from CPU and RAM. Given that memory is pretty cheap, I'd go for the upgrade myself.

      As far as the JEDEC#1, 2, 3 goes... here is some info: http://www.overclock.net/t/793189/whats-jedec-about

      artbuc

        Topic Starter


        Apprentice

        Re: Build New or Repair Old?
        « Reply #19 on: April 26, 2014, 02:49:15 PM »
        Thanks Dave. I just installed a 2x1GB Crucial kit to bring me up to 3GB. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! I can not believe it. This increased RAM together with my video card is fantastic!! My HD sounds like it has gone to sleep whereas before it was working its a$$ off.

        DaveLembke



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        Re: Build New or Repair Old?
        « Reply #20 on: April 26, 2014, 02:58:11 PM »
        BIG GRIN  ;D

        Glad you saw a drastic difference similar to my wifes computer upgrade to 3GB for Windows 7 32-bit on the older Dual-Core computer.  8)

        Note: If you ever feel like you want around 23% more processing power from the existing system. Your system can take a maximum CPU upgrade of an AMD Athlon 64 x2 5000+ 2.6Ghz CPU vs the Current 2.0Ghz CPU your running. The 2.0Ghz is probably plenty, but just letting you know that if needed you can pretty cheaply get more performance out of it maxing out the motherboard from processing power. I had a similar CPU to yours and while it was plenty, I felt the need for speed and upgraded and shipped the 2.0Ghz AMD Dual-Core to a college friend who moved to KY and needed to upgrade from his older Single Core to a Dual-Core. For me games ran better with the faster CPU at 2.6Ghz, although my motherboard is a Socket AM2+ and so I was able to go from a 2.0Ghz Dual-Core to a 2.6Ghz Quadcore Athlon II x4 620 CPU, which in addition to the extra 600Mhz clock, I also got 2 more cores of processing power and some more Cache as well.

        Here is one on ebay for $16.80 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMD-Athlon-64-x2-5000-2-6GHz-Dual-Core-Socket-AM2-Processor-ADO5000IAA5DO-0222-/231215346937?pt=CPUs&hash=item35d58234f9#ht_1263wt_916

        All you would need is to buy a small tube of thermal compound, so that when swapping the CPU out you apply a drop of new thermal compound to heatsink to make a thermal conductive bond between CPU face and heatsink. Also be sure to remove the old thermal compound before adding new. You may find that the thermal compound is dry and chalky in this system if you do this cheap upgrade.

        When removing the heatsink, I unlock the wings and then gentily twist the heatsink to break the bond. You never want to just lift out or pry up as for you can rip the legs from the CPU socket which would spell disaster. I have performed hundreds of CPU swap/installs and the twist of the heatsink is the best method of removal. You will know when its ready to pull off the heatsink because the heatsink will be loosely resting on the face of the CPU. Then I use Q-tips and paper towel to carefully wipe off and remove the old thermal compound from the old CPU and the heatsink bottom and try to avoid pieces of it or the goop of it getting onto the motherboard if still runny and not chalky from cooked over the years. CPU removal is easy for Socket AM2, there is a level to unlock the legs and with the lever lifted up to be straight up the CPU should be able to be gently grabbed on edges and lifted up and out. *Just pay attention to the triangle ( pin 1 ) location as for the same way this CPU comes out the next CPU goes in and it should drop on its own into the leg holes of the socket. As long as the legs are perfectly straight on the next CPU going in, it should just about drop into the holes perfectly. Once dropped in, you can apply a light pressure to make sure its seated flush with the plastic socket body and then I hold the CPU down with one hand while locking the legs in with the arm with my other hands fingers. Then its just add a drop of thermal compound to face of new CPU and apply heatsink or take a Q-tip with its cotton end cut off and use the stick to spread out the thermal paste on the CPU surface so that its not thick and ready to run out the sides when heatsink is applied , but there is an even sheen of thermal paste to bond the heatsink to when the heatsink is applied and locke in place with the lever which has a square hole opening at both sides that catch the underside of the plastic tab that the heatsink locks to on one side and the other side you have to apply some pressure against the metal locking latch to get the other side of the latch to catch under the other plastic tab and then that latch level from upright wing position latches down 90 degrees.