HP 5187-5208 56K PCI MODEM

[moonrakermagpie]

Hi there, my daughter has her hp pavilion 750 uk desktop PC, connected to the internet via usb, she has a ethernet to usb adapter.
The PC has a HP 5187-5208 56K PCI MODEM  (LITE-ON D-1156I#/A1A 56K PCI MODEM), is this suitable for broadband?? Can I just plug the cable from the virgin modem into it??

If not I have a KNE120TX Fast EtheRx 10/100 PCI Fast Ethernet Adapter. Would this be suitable for broadband.

Can I also ask:- The mother board as well as the parallel and serial and USB ports etc...has a socket with ethernet printed next to it...I assume that this is for connecting to a network and NOT any good for broadband, am I correct?

Many thanks

Steve

[Computer_Commando]

1.  hp pavilion 750 uk desktop PC, connected to the internet via usb, she has a ethernet to usb adapter.
2.  The PC has a HP 5187-5208 56K PCI MODEM  (LITE-ON D-1156I#/A1A 56K PCI MODEM), is this suitable for broadband?? Can I just plug the cable from the virgin modem into it??
3.  If not I have a KNE120TX Fast EtheRx 10/100 PCI Fast Ethernet Adapter. Would this be suitable for broadband.
4.  ...has a socket with ethernet printed next to it...I assume that this is for connecting to a network and NOT any good for broadband, am I correct?...

1.  Get rid of it.  Not necessary.
2.  NO.  That's for dial-up only.
3.  Yes.  But you don't need it.
4.  Incorrect, broadband is a network.  That's the one you want.  Your broadband modem has an ethernet connector.  Notice it's wider than the telephone connector.

[moonrakermagpie]

1.  Get rid of it.  Not necessary.
2.  NO.  That's for dial-up only.
3.  Yes.  But you don't need it.
4.  Incorrect, broadband is a network.  That's the one you want.  Your broadband modem has an ethernet connector.  Notice it's wider than the telephone connector.

Would the Kingston KNE120TX Fast EtheRx 10/100 PCI Fast Ethernet Adapter not be faster than the one on the mother board

[Computer_Commando]

Would the Kingston KNE120TX Fast EtheRx 10/100 PCI Fast Ethernet Adapter not be faster than the one on the mother board

No, it would not.  It's the same speed.

[moonrakermagpie]

No, it would not.  It's the same speed.

Thanks for that.  Before I start a new thread, can I ask your opinion.

When I took the side of D's PC I found the usual amount of fluff!!! ( is now like new!!!)...but I also found the heat sink from the memory chip, laying on it's back on the video card. On further investigation...Found one then two "hoops" that used to be stuck in the mother board, floating around the case.

I obviously need to reattach the heat sink....or do I? Could I possibly leave it off and leave the chip to be cooled by the proccessor fan. (I doubt it) I ran the PC for five mins and the chip is reaching 40 deg C when sat idle.
I have looked at where the two hoops fit, even if I take the MB out and try to glue them back in (I glue aircraft parts together for a living), I am not sure that with the load and possible heat, that they would stay put???

Is there such a thing as heat tranfer epoxy adhesive with which I could "bond" it back on with.

Second, there are two bolts holding the mother board in, that are in line with the chip....I could fairly easily make up a clamp to hold the heat sink in place.. basically a crude version of the clamp holding the heat sink on the proccessor.

OR I could take the mother board out and try to fix it that way... (would prefer not to if poss)

What do you think...any ideas???

Steve

[Computer_Commando]

Can you take a pic?  Not sure what the "heatsink" looks like and where it's supposed to be attached.  I suspect it's the onboard graphics chip heatsink, but how the clip came off is a mystery.  The heat conducting medium used is silicone heatsink compound grease.

[moonrakermagpie]

Sorry - don't know why I said memory chip 

Yes I know one normally uses silicone heatsink compound grease. Just wondered if you knew of some heat transfer adhesive, I've used aircraft adhesive that is good to 100 deg+.

Not sure glueing the hoops back in the board would hold as there is a lot of tension on the spring clip.

Here come the shots!!!

Could not attach - file size to big - there on photobucket.

The first picture - the chip is centre just above the end of video card (minus heatsink)



The holes for the "hoops" in the board are roughly off at 1'o'clock and seven 'o'clock - about 30/40mm (1.25ins) from middle of chip.

Other pics to follow.





The second and third shows heatsink with spring clip and one of the hoops below it.

[Computer_Commando]

You said:  "...The holes for the "hoops" in the board are roughly off at 1'o'clock and seven 'o'clock - about 30/40mm (1.25ins) from middle of chip..."
I've magnified the pic but can't see where they go, if you can see where they go, that's all that matters.  Heatsink must be installed, they are there for a reason.

I thought that's the one that you were referring to.  Never saw one broken like that.  There should be 2 attachment hoops, both are soldered to the motherboard.  The one in your pic doesn't appear to be broken,  looks like it broke the solder joint and pulled through.

3 Options, in order of preference
1.  I would attempt to solder them back in, but motherboard must be removed.  It's not hard to do if you work on aircraft.  Easier than pulling an engine out of a nacelle.

2.  If you're really good with epoxy, as you stated, you could do it without removing the motherboard.  You will have to clear the hole, so you can insert the pins.  You can't heat the solder from the top, but a very small drill bit will do it.  If bit is too big it could destroy a nearby copper trace on one of the many layers.  Bit should be just large enough to insert hoop pins.

3.  The problem with aircraft adhesive is that's it's more of an insulator than a conductor.  If it's good to 100C and has good thermal conducting properties, it would be a lot easier.

[moonrakermagpie]

Glad I cleaned all the crap out before I posted the picks

>>Easier than pulling an engine out of a nacelle.<<

Don't do that, I have been involved in R&D using glass and carbon fibre, when parts are cured, they are then bonded with high tech adhesives - it is done in clean room conditions,  prep and degreasing and curing cycles can mean the difference between a lifelong joint or failure.

>>If bit is too big it could destroy a nearby copper trace on one of the many layers.<<

I could use a device to measure the hoops and use the right one

Although there is always the risk of damage to the board, all be it small.

thankyou so much for your help.

Your a star!!!!

[Computer_Commando]

...
1.  I have been involved in R&D using glass and carbon fibre, when parts are cured, they are then bonded with high tech adhesives - it is done in clean room conditions,  prep and degreasing and curing cycles can mean the difference between a lifelong joint or failure.
2.  If bit is too big it could destroy a nearby copper trace on one of the many layers.
I could use a device to measure the hoops and use the right one
3.  Although there is always the risk of damage to the board, all be it small.

1.  I got it, high tech aircraft structures.  I was in aerospace, mostly R&D, too.
2.  Micrometer.
3.  Agreed.
You can have the motherboard out in less than 30 minutes.  Philips screwdriver (magnetic tip helps) is the only tool required.  Then try to solder them back in.  Cards come out, cpu & memory stay in.  The tension of the new epoxy on top could break the bond.  You may have to epoxy on the bottom, if the solder pads have delaminated.  Or make a new hoop from carbon fiber filament, which will give you a long section on the back to epoxy.