Well - the WYSIWYG aspect is very much optional IMO - and I reckon this is one of the best freebies out there ..... Kompozer ..
http://www.kompozer.net/ - there's a portable version too - very handy.
IIRC it's an open source prog. My main workhorse is DW 2004 but then I use that mainly in code mode anyways - along with text editor (UltraEdit).
Actually, as text editors go Ultra Edit is excellent but sad to say not free ... good for code writing tho. I think latest NOTEPAD++ 4.5 is able to be handy for html coding too - that's freebie IIRC.
I have no doubt a thoro Google search will turn up a load of options - check out
www.sourceforge.net too.